Monday 13 April 2015

We're All Going Bahamas!


Friday 3rd April

We arrived at Heathrow’s Terminal Two in unusually good time for Marsh travellers and hoping that Friday would live up to its name –  ie Good. But, truth be told, the party was in a considerable state of trepidation, and that had nothing to do with the idea that our pilot might be on a Prozac-lithium cocktail and have just split up with his girlfriend. Don’t Virgin have a rule that Richard Branson has to be in the cockpit at all times or something?

No, our state of nervous anxiety was all to do with our old friend Esta. She had been a right cow last year if anyone can remember, and still seemed as if she might be in one of her moods. The night before, she had miserably prevented F from checking in on-line. But no, Esta was as nice as pie this morning and, with the aid of a friendly check-in person and R’s brief trip to the prayer room (he said he was going to the loo) our bags, all marked “heavy”, were soon disappearing on the conveyor behind the plastic strips – in that ritual that puts on so in mind of the last rites at a crematorium. R did in fact go to the loo, but this was only because he had to remove all the mud from Fiona’s suitcase that he had so thoughtfully applied earlier at the Glebe when hurling it in to the car. He swears he didn’t use the bog brush, but we have our doubts.

The flight passed uneventfully – no sign of Richard B though, in or out of the cockpit - and after watching much inflight entertainment and consuming free chocolates we arrived in New York.  The entry procedure was tortuous as always, but we did whizz down the fast lane for those with returning Estas and had the excitement of the computerised passport checking system.  You would have thought that this might but lessen the queuing time to get to the actual passport control, but that would be far too logical. Eventually we got into the USA proper, tracked down our luggage which had been removed from the belt – though there was no sign of any crippled handlers - and managed to grab it before it was, as the announcement said, “removed as unwanted”.  Then we found a cab to take us to our hotel for the night.  

It was a pleasant enough place, no men with knives in the shower at least, but we were just there to sleep.  Before we got too tired we headed into the city by subway (R was not here, or else we would have had to call it the tube), destination Times Square.  Typically we had a few problems on the subway, but asking people at both ends meant that we narrowly avoided getting on the wrong train and ending up in Indiana.  The electronic system of letting you know which station you were at and heading to was helpful and we had fun matching the place names to the map on the wall behind us. This may not be the most fun you can have in New York, but it amused us.

Once in Times Square we had even more fun trying to stand in the right place to ensure we were captured on the electronic bill board.  In this we succeeded, so that an image of the Marsh family – except, that is, the grumpy one back at home  muttering “it’s the tube, not the subway” – was projected high into the night air for everyone to see. Our meal was good: an Italian just off Times Square.  The extremely snooty family next to us, however, who seemed to think we were beneath them, kept looking down their noses at us for some reason. Maybe they were jealous that we had been on the billboard.


Saturday 4th April

We were up early but only managed to grab a waffle to eat as we raced out to catch the shuttle (or it may have been a wattle we grabbed, en route to the shuffle – this was early morning folks).  Even just getting the waffle/wattle involved a military manoeuvre of which my father would have been proud:   Jenny was in charge of food capture, Jamie on lift holding duties and Fiona was running back and forth to the room getting the luggage which Jamie, when he could be spared from the lift, took down to the lobby.  It was all working fine until the doors closed and Jamie disappeared to some distant floor.  (Spookily, a message from the home front about this time told us that R had been having nightmares about being trapped in a lift.) Then the door to the room shut and would not open even with the key card.  Puffing, laden and carrying the waffles/wattles we piled onto the shuttle/shuffle bus. This was to the intense disapproval of the quietly-spoken driver, who may have been related to the people we sat next to last night at dinner.

At the airport Fiona battled with the automatic check-in, failed to produce a boarding card and so the family, to the embarrassment of its teenage daughter, joined the snaking queue to the check-in for “people with difficulties”.  A woman behind us started chatting, explaining how she was late for her flight.  As we were too by this time, we did not do the chivalrous thing which would have been to let her pass.  No doubt though she would have been cheered by our sweet commiserations, and comforted by our kind words as she waited around in the airport for the next flight.

Our destination was Orlando airport, which we liked.  We had time to explore and there was plenty of interesting food, comfy chairs and, most importantly of all, Wifi.  Even with a couple of hours to kill, we still managed to get late and ended up being the last people to board, having held the flight up as we filled in the Bahamas documentation incorrectly. It all had to be re-done.  In hindsight it was obvious that we had completed the wrong section referring to our stay;  at the time, however, and in the stress of the moment, it was not so clear.

The plane to Freeport was tiny.  It had one seat on one side of the aisle and two on the other.  We sat over the wings – not on them, however, it wasn’t that small - and the noise of the propeller was deafening.  At least it was an interesting flight that passed swiftly. 

As soon as we arrived in Freeport the whole pace changed.  The bustling crowds of New York and Orlando were a memory and we felt almost alone in the island airport.  There were no queues to go through immigration and when questioned at customs about where we were staying, we were simply waved through when F said she needed to look it up.

Our hire car was produced with amazing efficiency and off we drove into the island. On the wrong side of the road.  Subconsiously obliterating our colonial history, F assumed the Bahamas drove on the right – an assumption reinforced by the fact that the hire car was left-hand drive. But no: linked closely as they might be to Uncle Sam, nostalgia still counts for something out here and they drive on the left. When they drive at all. There was almost nothing on the roads: cars were outnumbered by signs saying “keep left”. This is an advantage when there is a mad Englishwoman about, driving on the wrong side of them.

On arrival at our resort, Viva Wyndham Fortuna Beach, we were not allowed to check in at reception but directed round to the side to a “special check-in”.  Well "directed" doesn't quite capture it. In fact we were left to flounder about, heading in one random direction and then another.  Eventually we found our privileged reception,  which turned out to be only a few yards from where we started.  Special to the extent that it looked like a broom cupboard, this facility was manned by two officious women, whom one would not like to meet in a dark alley.  Immediately  we were in trouble as we had not apparently brought the right papers. Then to make matters worse, F's Post Office Travel Money card did not work.  At this stage we were being regarded as dodgy characters and given various ultimata about what had to be produced by when. If these conditions were not met, it was pretty clear certain consequences would follow, not necessarily consistent with happy holidays.  We were then tagged with a yellow plastic band (tightly done up) for Fiona and red for the children.  Labelled and lectured, we left sheepishly and went to find our rooms.

Our mood lifted when we got inside.  The rooms were lovely, leading to directly onto the beach, with the most marvellous views.  The children had one room with a double bed each and Fiona had another with a king sized bed. The children’s room seemed perfect, but there were a few things troubling Fiona in hers.  The aircon seemed to have a mind of its own and did not appear to respond to any obvious commands.  It could not be switched off.  The shower was either extremely hot or freezing cold.  The in between bit seemed to switch it off completely – though at least that gave one a possible hint about how to deal with a truculent air-conditioning unit.  And the bedside light flashed as if in a disco with strobe lighting. 

The temperature was hot and there was no bottled water in the room, so we went off in search of some as a priority.  Guest services told us that we were only allowed one bottle for our stay. 

Fiona:  “But this is an all-inclusive resort,” 

Guet services: "And your point is?"

Fiona:   “Are you telling me that I can go to the bar and order as much drink as I like, whenever, I like, but you will only allow us one bottle of water in the room?”.

Guest services: “Yes Ma’am. But you can go to the bar and ask them to fill it up for you.”

F then explained that we didn’t even have one bottle of water in the room so could we at least please have that. The lady, who seemed to have an incomplete knowledge of either the term "guest" or "services" was unconvinced.  Raising her eyes to heaven and telling me that it was this and no more, she reluctantly handed over a bottle.  After another curt exchange F managed to extract three bottles, one each.

At supper we discovered something unexpected.  We were VIPs. We were ushered onto a raised platform where there were a number of tables and told to sit anywhere we liked.  There was nowhere laid so we asked.  “Go get yourself a knife and fork Ma’am,” we were told.  We were starting to feel very sorry for non-VIPs who, it might turn out, were eating from bowls on the floor with their hands tied behind their backs.  Eventually we tracked down the cutlery and everything else we needed for supper, including the food.  Well, you could hardly miss the food.  There was so much of it.  The buffet had nearly anything you could possibly want.  As is the way with all inclusive deals, we piled our plates and staggered back, up the steps to our table.  By the end of the meal we had neither empty plates nor any space left in our stomachs for anything esle. We stumbled back to our rooms and collapsed into bed.

Sunday 5th April

This was our quiet, chill out day.  We slowly worked out where everything was, including a special VIP seating area on the beach. It didn’t seem any different from the other areas apart from being more crowded.  It was Easter Sunday, but there was nothing that made you think it was any different from any other day, apart from a BBQ, which apparently was something special.

The sea was a glorious turquoise colour and the beach, with palms dotted along it, made for a real paradise island setting.

The food was just amazing.  The breakfast buffet was endless.  You could get anything from traditional breakfast cereals and toast to pancakes with maple syrup and melon (a firm family favourite) to a toasted cheese sandwich, chicken curry and even chocolate pudding.  For lunch and indeed throughout the day, the beach bar is open, serving bbq meats, pizzas, tortillas and biscuits and of course drinks galore.

In the evening we tried one of three speciality restaurants which are again included in the all-inclusive price.  This was the gourmet one and we eat a high class meal which was a highlight of the holiday for Jenny. Jamie though, not so interested in food that is not pizza, pasta or hot dogs fell asleep.